Yarn and fabrics made from flax fibres, probably the earliest textile made from plants. Linen was made in ancient Egypt, and the Romans brought flax-growing to Britain. Linen fabrics and yarns are fine, strong, and lustrous, and still fashionable, despite their poor easy-care properties.
Linen is a material made from the fibers of the flax plant.
Flax fiber
General information
The term "linen" refers to fabric made from flax fibers, however today it is often used as a generic term to describe bed, bath, table and kitchen textiles because traditionally linen was so widely used for towels, sheets, etc. As used today the word "linen" is descriptive of a class of woven textiles used in homes as towels, sheets, and tablecloths.
Linen is the oldest textile material in the world. Linen was used in the Mediterranean in the pre-Christian age.
Today flax is a prestigious, expensive fiber and only produced in small quantities.
Description of flax fibers
Flax fibers vary in length from about 2 to 36 inches and average 12-16 micrometers in diameter. There are two varieties: shorter tow fibers used for coarser fabrics and longer line fibers used for finer fabrics.
Properties of flax
Linen fabrics have a high natural luster and their natural color ranges between shades of ivory, tan, or grey. Pure white linen is created by heavy bleaching which is not good for the fabric. Linen typically has a thick and thin character with a crisp and textured feel to it, but can range from stiff and rough to soft and smooth. Linen is a stiff fabric and is less likely to cling to the skin and when it billows away it tends to dry out and become cool so that the skin is being continually touched by a cool surface.
A characteristic often associated with linen yarn is the presence of "slubs", or small knots that occur randomly along its length.
Measure
The standard measure of bulk linen yarn is the lea.
Production method
The quality of the finished linen product is often dependent upon growing conditions and harvesting techniques. however, the finished fibers often lose the characteristic linen look. After the fibers have been separated and processed, they are typically spun into yarns and woven or knit into linen textiles.
Producers
Flax is grown in many parts of the World, but top quality flax is primarily grown in Western Europe. In very recent years bulk linen production has moved to Eastern Europe and China, however quality fabrics are still confined to niche producers in Ireland, Italy and Belgium.
Linseed flax is grown in Canada, USA and Argentina.
Uses
Over the past thirty years the end use for linen has changed dramatically. Approximately 70% of linen production in the 1990’s was for apparel textiles whereas in the 1970’s only about 5% was used for fashion fabrics.
Linen uses range from bed and bath fabrics (table cloths, dish towels, bed sheets, etc.), home and commercial furnishing items (wallpaper/ wall coverings, upholstery, window treatments, etc.), apparel items (suits, dresses, skirts, shirts, etc.) , to industrial products (luggage, canvases, sewing thread, etc.).
A linen handkerchief, pressed and folded to display the corners, was a standard decoration of a well-dressed man's suit during most of the first part of the twentieth century.
Linen fabric is one of the prefered traditional undergrounds for artistic painting.
In the past linen was also used for books (the only surviving example of which is the Liber Linteus). Due to its strength, in the Middle Ages linen was used for shields and gambeson, much like how in Classical antiquity and Hellenistic Greece linen was used to make multi-plied Hoplite cuirasses. Also because of its strength when wet, Irish linen is the best wrap of pool/billiard cues, due to its absorption of sweat from hands. Paper made of linen can be very strong and crisp, which is why the United States and many other countries print their currency on paper that is made from 25% Linen and 75% Cotton.
Linens history
Linen, which is made from flax, has been used for table coverings, bed coverings and clothing for centuries. The exclusivity of linen stems from the fact that it is difficult and time consuming to produce (flax in itself requires a great deal of attention in its growth).
Due to the parallel arrangement of its fibers, linen is a stronger, sturdier fabric than cotton. In addition, linen is highly absorbent (perfect for dish towels and napkins). Due to its insulating qualities, linen coverings (such as our entertaining smock and chef's jacket) produces an impression of coolness, ideal for warm kitchens. The subtle combination of firmness and softness of linen make this fabric a favorite.
Linen can be machine-washed (and grows softer with time and use) and then ironed while still damp with a hot iron. Linen products tend to outlast cotton, enduring up to 20 years of use.
Linguistic note
The word linen is derived from the Latin for the flax plant, which is linum, and the earlier Greek linon. This word history has given rise to a number of other terms:
line, derived from the use of a linen thread to determine a straight line; other uses such as ocean liner derive ultimately from this use lining, due to the fact that linen was often used to create a lining for wool and leather clothing lingerie, via French, originally denotes underwear made of linen Linnet, a European finch that eats flax seed linseed oil, an oil derived from flax seed linoleum, a floor covering made from linseed oil and other materialsThe word lintel, a supporting member above a door or window, is not related.
In addition, the term in English, flaxen-haired, denoting a very light, bright blonde, comes from a comparison to the color of raw flax fiber.
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