Maurice Herzog - Ascent of Annapurna, Controversy over his account of the ascent, Other achievements

Mountaineer and politician, born in Lyon, SC France. He studied law in Paris and returned to Lyon to study science. In 1950 he headed the French expedition to the Himalayas and became the first to reach the summit of Mount Annapurna I (3 Jun). He later served as secretary of state for youth and sport (1958–66), became Mayor of Chamonix (1968–77), and was elected a member of the International Olympic Committee (1970–95). Among his publications are Annapurna, First 8000 (1951, trans title) and L'Autre Annapurna (1998).

Ascent of Annapurna

Herzog became, on 3 June 1950, the first person to climb a peak over 8000m when, in the company of Louis Lachenal, he summited the Himalayan mountain Annapurna, 10th-highest mountain in the world. A decision by both climbers to opt for light boots for the summit dash, and a freak accident where Herzog lost his gloves on the summit, meant that both climbers suffered severe frostbite, with both losing all of their toes and Herzog most of his fingers.

Annapurna was not to be climbed again until its south face was conquered in 1970 by an expedition lead by British climber Chris Bonington.

Herzog’s account of the expedition was published under the title Annapurna, which went on to sell 11 million copies – more than any other book on climbing before or since. Ending with the stirring line “there are other Annapurnas in the lives of men” (interpreted as an exhortation to answer the challenges that life offers) the book gave an account of the expedition that established Herzog’s climbing reputation and inspired a generation of mountaineers.

Controversy over his account of the ascent

Herzog's climbing reputation, and the inspiration the book has offered, has subsequently been called into question with the publication of other members’ accounts of the expedition, most significantly by a biography of Gaston Rébuffat and the posthumous publication, in 1996, of Lachenal’s contemporaneous journals.

Other achievements

Herzog went on to become the French Minister of Youth and Sport from 1958 to 1963, and mayor of the alpine town of Chamonix Mont Blanc.