batik - History, Procedure, Tradition

A form of dyeing in which parts of the fabric are left undyed because of wax printed or painted onto it. The fabric is then crushed to crack the wax, and dyed. Removal of the wax leaves undyed areas covered in fine lines. This method, a form of resist dyeing, originated in Indonesia.

For the software tool, see Batik (software).

Batik is a Javanese word that refers to a generic wax-resist dyeing technique used on fabric.

History

The technique is thought to be over a thousand years old, and historical evidence demonstrates that cloth decorated with this resist technique was in use in the early centuries AD in Africa, the Middle East, and in several places in Asia.

Despite the fact that batik may have originated elsewhere, most observers believe that batik has reached its highest artistic expression in Indonesia, particularly in Java.

Procedure

Melted wax is applied to cloth before being dipped in dye. Thin wax lines are made with a tjanting (canting, pronounced chahn-ting) needle, a wooden-handled tool with a tiny metal cup with a tiny spout, out of which the wax seeps. Other methods of applying the wax to the fabric include pouring the liquid wax, painting the wax on with a brush, and applying the hot wax to a precarved wooden or metal wire block and stamping the fabric. One indication of the level of craftmanship in a piece of batik cloth is whether the pattern is equally visible on both sides of the cloth. Then it is dipped in a solvent to dissolve the wax, or placed in a vat of boiling water, or ironed between paper towels or newspapers to absorb the wax and reveal the deep rich colors and the fine crinkle lines that give batik its character.

The invention of the copper block or cap developed by the Javanese in the 20th century revolutionised batik production.

Tradition

Indonesia is a very diverse country, and Indonesian batik textiles exhibit many styles. The traditional batik style (usually using earth colors and very intricate), was known to be the style reserved for the nobles at the Java Keraton (court).

In general, Malaysian batik emphasizes a more contemporary style of brighter hues and more versatile but less intricate patterns. Batik has long been a part of Javanese heritage, and the batik tradition in Malaysia is much younger.