A bristly perennial, native to Europe and the Mediterranean region; leaves grow to 30 cm/12 in, narrowly oval, rough, the upper with stalks forming wings on the stem; inflorescence coiled; flowers drooping, tubular, or funnel-shaped, white, yellow, or pink in bud, and opening blue. (Genus: Symphytum, 25 species. Family: Boraginaceae.)
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Russian comfrey (Symphytum x uplandicum) |
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Symphytum asperum Lepechin Symphytum officinale L. of particular interest is the "Bocking 14" cultivar of Russian Comfrey (Symphytum x uplandicum). This strain was
developed during the 1950s by Lawrence D Hills, the founder of the Henry Doubleday Research Association (the organic gardening organisation itself named after the Quaker pioneer who first
introduced Russian Comfrey into Britain in the 1910s) following trials at Bocking, near Braintree, the original home of the organisation. Other species include: Symphytum asperum, Prickly Comfrey, Rough Comfrey (synonym: S. asperrimum) Symphytum bulbosum, Bulbous Comfrey Symphytum caucasicum, Caucasian Comfrey Symphytum grandiflorum, Creeping Comfrey (synonym: S. ibericum) Symphytum orientale, White Comfrey Symphytum tauricum, Crimean Comfrey Symphytum tuberosum, Tuberous Comfrey Symphytum x uplandicum, Russian Comfrey, Healing Herb, Blackwort, Bruisewort, Wallwort, Gum Plant. When dividing comfrey plants take care not to spread root fragments around, or dispose of on the compost heap as each can re-root, and comfrey can be a very difficult plant to get rid of.CultivationThe comfrey bed should be well prepared by weeding thoroughly, and dressing with manure if available. Comfrey should not be harvested in its first season as it needs to become established. Comfrey is a fast growing plant, producing huge amounts of leaf during the growing season, hence is very nitrogen hungry. Mature comfrey plants can be harvested up to four or five times a year. Comfrey will rapidly regrow, and will be ready for further cutting about 5 weeks later. It is said that the best time to cut comfrey is shortly before flowering, for this is when it is at its most potent in terms of the nutrients that it offers. Comfrey can continue growing into November, but it is not advisable to continue taking cuttings after September in order to allow the plants to build up winter reserves. Comfrey should be harvested by using shears or a sickle to cut the plant about 2 inches above the ground, taking care handling it because the leaves and stems are covered in hairs that can irritate the skin. It is however difficult to remove comfrey once established as it is very deep rooting, and any fragments left in the soil will regrow. The best way to eradicate comfrey is to very carefully dig it out, removing as much of the root as possible. Comfrey is generally trouble free once established, although weaker or stressed plants can suffer from comfrey rust or mildew. Medicinal usesRosemary Morrow writes that 'Russian comfrey and garlic could together, according to natural health usage, almost halve the present ills of western civilisation' (The Book Of Herbs, Pan 1976). Comfrey has been used to treat a wide variety of ailments ranging from bronchial problems, broken bones, sprains, arthritis, gastric and varicose ulcers, severe burns, acne and other skin conditions. Internal usage of comfrey should be avoided because it contains hepatotoxic pyrrolizidine alkaloids (PAs) (Note, there are also non-hepatotoxic pyrrolizidine alkaloids.). Symphytine, one of the PAs in comfrey, causes cancer in rats. Avoid using comfrey on dirty or deep wounds, as the rapid healing properties of the allantoins may trap dirt or pus, leading to the formation of abscesses. Fertilizer usesComfrey is a particularly valuable source of fertility to the organic gardener. There is also no risk of nitrogen robbery when comfrey is dug into the soil as the C:N ratio of the leaves is lower than that of well-rotted compost. Comfrey is an excellent source of potassium, an essential plant nutrient needed for flower, seeds and fruit production. There are various ways in which comfrey can be utilised as a fertiliser, these include: Comfrey for potatoes- freshly cut comfrey should be wilted for a day or two, then laid in potato trenches about 2 inches deep. Comfrey as a compost activator- include 2-3 inch deep layers of comfrey in the compost heap to encourage bacterial activity and help to heat the heap. Comfrey should not be added in quantity as it will quickly break down into a dark sludgey liquid that needs to be balanced with more fibrous, carbon rich material. Comfrey liquid fertiliser- can be produced by either rotting leaves down in rainwater for 4-5 weeks to produce a ready to use 'comfrey tea', or by stacking dry leaves under a weight in a container with a hole in the base. When the leaves decompose a thick black comfrey concentrate is collected. Comfrey as a mulch- a 2 inch layer of comfrey leaves placed around a crop will slowly break down and release plant nutrients. Comfrey potting mixture- originally devised using peat, environmental awareness has lead to a leaf-mold based alternative being adopted instead. Two year old, well decayed leaf mold should be used, this will absorb the nutrient rich liquid released by the decaying comfrey. In a black plastic sack alternate 3-4 inch layers of leaf mould and chopped comfrey leaves. the mixture is ready when the comfrey leaves have rotted and are no longer visible. |
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